Saturday, 2 August 2014

Seasonally Appropriate: Simplicity 1652

While it is pretty common knowledge that I am all about the separates, there is still room in my life for dresses, on occasion. Take summer, for instance. There really is something to be said for the sun dress, easy, cool, one piece dressing that doesn't necessarily have to coordinate with the rest of ones' closet. Fun!

Hmm. My head is a bit fuzzy, but the dress looks pretty good...

Enter Simplicity 1652. I know, many of you out there knock out princess seamed full skirted beauties on a regular basis, but for me, this was somewhat of a departure. I bought the pattern with something else entirely in mind (check out this lovely!) However, I had this fabric kicking around, and I thought I would just take a chance on something a bit different.

This is an Amazing Fit pattern, and the instructions have you choose your cup size, baste the dress together, and fit from there. Well, I made a muslin of the bodice, and I am so glad I did. I originally cut the size 14 C cup, which fits my bust to waist section pretty well, but is far too large above the apex., including across front width. If I do come back to this pattern, I'm going to try the B cup, and let it out below the apex instead. So here is what I did, in case you are curious…

Made a 3/4" narrow shoulder adjustment (this tutorial is nice and clear) to the centre front bodice piece.
Made a corresponding adjustment to the upper back piece, also taking out a large wedge from the middle of the piece that I pinned out of my muslin.
Lowered the armholes by 1/2", as they were far too high and tight.
The pattern has the armholes finished with a folded bias strip, but it just wouldn't sit well, particularly at the side front armhole, so I doubled back and drafted a facing instead. It makes for a lot of busy-ness inside, but it sits much better than the binding.
Took in 1/2" either side of the centre back zip, grading to nothing at the waist.
Overlapped the button at the back neck, instead of having the closure right on the edge.
For me, this is a long list! Fitting a princess seam is very different from fitting my usual boxy pieces.

This pattern included very generous 1" seam allowances at the side seam, which was helpful, as I am a bit wider through the torso than the 14, which is the largest size in this grouping. I ended up using a regular 5/8" seam allowance at the bodice sides, but on the back at the underarm I took it in to use the full 1".

In other news, I did not shorten the bodice, as I usually have to do, since the waist seam sits "above the natural waist". In my case, right on the natural waist. Bonus! And, the skirt was long enough without having to add length. However, I have worn this dress twice out in the real world, and I think I need to lengthen the front somewhere above the apex, as I keep tugging it down to get the seam to sit properly. Oh, and I also shifted the gathering of the skirt front so that my stripes would line up. I didn't really take that into consideration when cutting, so it was a bit of a lucky thing there.

Want to see the insides? Of course you do.

And yes, I lined the bodice, and in hindsight I suppose I could have done some sort of clean finish armhole. However, the facing is already looking a bit, oh, how to say this, sweaty. For a summer dress, a facing can be a bit of a life saver. Or at least a dress saver.

My final words of wisdom for this pattern - definitely make a muslin first - that narrow shoulder adjustment was extreme!

Thanks for stopping by!